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w. RBEARDsL-EE. METHOD 0]? SEWING PARALLEL SAMS.

No. 438,795. Patented Oct. 21, 1890.

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2 Sheets-Sheet 2. W. E BEARDSLEE, Y METHOD 0F SEWING PARALLEL SEAMS.

Patented Oct. 21,1890.l

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM F. BEARDSLEE, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO THE MANU- FACTURERS SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF DANBURY, CONNECTICUT.

METHOD OF SEWING PARALLEL SEAMS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 438,795, dated October 21, 1890.

Application iiled March '7, 1890. Serial No. 342,979. (No specimens.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM F. BEAEDs- LEE, ot' New York, in the county 'of New York, and State of New York, have invented an Improvement in the Method ot' Sewing Parallel Seams, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters and figures on the drawings representing like parts.

Prior to my invention it has been customary to sew together or form seams in material by the employment of two threads carried by two eye-pointed needles set side by side, so as to make parallel lines of stitching, the loops of thread lthrown out from the eyes of the said needles belowthe material being concatenated, as in United States Patents Nos. 356,415 and 397,495, the said loops being concatenated below the material by the employment of a suitable looping mechanism.

In accordance with the invention to be herein described the two parallel rows of stitching are concatenated not only below but also above the material, such method of stitching forming a very strong seam, the two threads carried by the two eye-pointed needles moving in the same direction, enveloping the material between the two parallel rows of stitching, and so holding the material that when trimmed close to one of the lines of stitching and thereafter opened out flatthere will be presented a well-covered safe flat seam-verydesirable for use in connection with knitted goods.

' The stitch to be herein described is of the class known as straight ahead, as contra-,-

carrying one ot' the said loops of thread across from one to the other row of stitches, holding both the said loops of thread in such position, again putting new loops of both threads through the material, the loop made in the thread iirst spread as described above the Inaterial at this passage through the material being passed through both loops ofA thread then held below the material, all as will be described.

Figure l shows two pieces of material united by the method of sewing herein to be described; Fig. 2, an under side view of l; Fig. 3, an under side view of a modified forni of concatenation. Figs. 4, 5, and 6 show de- 65 tails of mechanical devices by which my method of sewing may be practiced; and Figs.

7, 8, and 9 show different steps in the manipulations of the threads above the material.

Before describing my method ot' stitching 7o I will state that the two eye-pointed threadcarrying needles g g' set a shortv distance apart transverse to the line ot' feed. The loopeI` c2, having thel shoulder 10, the shaft A3, and the cloth-plate A5 are and may be all 75 as in United States Patent No. 355,053, granted to me December 28, 1886, and in practicing the method of stitching herein -to be described the said parts may be actuated as provided for in the said patent. The machine 8o described in the said patent acted to concatenatev the loops of needle-thread only below the material, as represented in Fig. 2, and therefore the particular method of handling the threads below the said material, so as to carry the loop formed from the thread 2 of the needle g below the material across to the other line of stitches to be entered by a loop t0 be thereafter made in the thread 3, carried by the needle g at its next descent, need not 9o be herein particularly described. The said Patent No. 355,053 does not illustrate the stitch made by the machine therein described; but it is exactly the same as in United States Patent No. 356,415. While the looper herein shown and fully described in the said patent will act to concatenate the threads below the material, as shown in Fig. 2, and also in Patent No. 356,415, I desire it to be understood that instead of the exact concatenation shown roo in Fig. 2 the said threads below the material may be concatenated as in Fig. 3, which is the same as in United States Patent No. 397,495, the diierences in the concatenation being immaterial in result.

The particularly novel step in my method ot' stitching lies in taking the thread 3 ot' the needle g and carrying it across the material between the needle g and the upper side of the material, so that as the thread 2 is to he passed through the material it will be passed first through a bight of the thread 3, as in Figs. l, 7, 8, and 9.

To form a bight in the thread 3, I have provided a looper l), the exact construction and operation ot which, together with other cooperative parts, are fully described in application Serial No. 342,978, tiled by me for United States patent, which shows one form of machine by which to practice my method. Herein it is only necessary to understand that the said looper h has an oscillating movement in a horizontal plane in a curved path, the path being such as to take the thread 3 and carry it aside when the needles g g are elevated and hold a bight of the said thread 3 across the material under the descending needle g.

To make a stitch in accordance with my method of sewing, I will rst refer to Fig. 7, where d is supposed to represent the material to be stitched with two parallel rows ot stitches, one row of stitches from thread 2 and the other from thread 3, the two threads being concatenated both above and below the material. The said ligure, as well as Figs. S and 9, is supposed to show several stitches as having already been made. Both needles g g are shown elevated in Fig. 7. Their threads 3 and 2 are extended from the eyes ot the said needles to the material, and the material d is supposed to have been fed the length of a stitch preparatory to making two more stitches, one in each row. In this condition the looper l) engagesthe thread 3 and carries it across on the upper side of the material, as in Fig. 8, leaving a bight of the thread 3 spread under and so as to be penetrated bythe needle g at its next descent, as in Fig. 9, the said looper l) being retracted into the position Fig. 7 about as the two needles g g complete or are completing their descent. The threads 2 and 3 from the two needles g and g below the material have loops formed in them bv the rising of the needles, and the said loops are both entered by the looper c2, the latter in its backstroke taking both loops with it and pulling the loop of thread 2 aside, as in Fig. 2, into the path of movement of the needle g', so that the said loops are retained by the said looper c2 insuch position below the material that at the next descent of the said needles the needle g enters not only its own loop but also the loop made from the thread 2 otl the needle g. This seam, consisting, essentially, of two rows of stitches, may be trimm ed as made in the'dotted line fr Figs. l and 2, the trimming coming close to but not cutting the threads 2 and 3, and thereafter the two pieces of material may be opened out, leaving the loops of the thread 2 and 3 extended from one to the other seam, the thread 2 crossing from one to the other line of stitching at one'side ot' the openedout material, while the thread 3 is extended across on the other side of the material, the said threads each concatenated in the line of stitching made by the other thread, serving to bind and hold in place smoothly the material between the two parallel lines of stitches, making a sate flat seam.

I claim- The herein-described method of sewing with two threads 2 3, which consists in laying a bight of thread 3, connected to the upper side of the material, in one row ot' stitches across on the material into the'line of the second parallel row of stitches, putting a loop of thread 2 through the bight of the said thread 3 and through the material, and at the saine time putting a loop ot' the thread 3 through the material, forming a loop in both the said threads below the material, carrying the loop of thread 2 across at the under side of the material to the line of stitches made by the thread 3, holding the said loops at the under side of the material in the line of stitches to be made by the thread 3, again laying a bight of the thread 3 across on the surface ot' the material, as before, putting a loop of the thread 3 through the material and through a loop ot' its own thread and of the thread 2, and at the same time putting a loop of the thread 2 through the loop ot' thread 3 at the upper side of the material and through the material and again catching and holding both loops of thread below the material, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

WILLIAM F. BEARDSLEE.

Vtftnesses:

ALBERT C. MERRIAM, ALFRED PARTRIDGE, J r.

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